Something Wicked
Mabgate Mills, Leeds.
Week 1
My first week on placement with Something Wicked has consisted of:
Meeting the team (and the dogs)
Cutting fabric pieces for orders, products for a sample sale and items for stock
Sewing Gold tags onto Blindfolds
This was to get the blindfolds ready for dispatching of an order
Having a look through the Line Sheet
Familiarising myself with the products available in each collection
Something Wicked currently has eight collections
Understanding the Bra Sizing Chart
How this dictates which sizes are to be cut
How sister sizing works
The technical requirements for manufacturing
Cut out and began sewing the "Eve Thong"
All manufacturing is a continuous process and will be developed throughout the placement
Re-making the patterns for a range of collections
Cutting out fabric patterns for a variety of orders etc, from a range of collections has allowed me to work with a new range of fabrics, learn about their properties, grain lines and how they perform when being cut (do they move, how much pressure is needed, can gathering occur etc). This has also allowed me to work with a range of patterns from each collection and gain an understanding of how many pattern pieces are required to make one item of lingerie.
The fabrics included within the collection and those I have worked with are:
Japanese Plonge Leather
Napa Leather
Both animal leathers have been a new experience for me, but one I have found interesting. The plonge is easier to cut than the Napa as it has a "butter-like" quality which requires less pressure. The underside of the Napa (wrong side) is thicker and therefore requires more pressure to fully cut through.
Vegan Leather
The Vegan Leather was also a learning curve as this is a synthetic fabric made from plastics. This therefore means that the underside of the fabric (wrong side) is harder to cut through as the threads often don't catch on the blade; causing pulling and some distortion in the fabric.
Suede
Suede is an interesting fabric to work with as the properties are similar to leather but with the fabric being thinner. The observation I have made is that suede needs to be handled with care as marks etc can appear on the surface which would negatively impact the overall aesthetic of the product.
Both lightweight and medium/heavyweight powermesh
Denier
Tulle
- Both power meshes and the denier are unusual fabrics and require a lot of care when cutting out. Similar to cotton jersey, the elastane in the fabrics often doesn't fully cut through and when lifting the pieces can cause pulling and gathering which cannot be eased out. The tulle is similar in some aspects to the heavyweight power mesh as it can also gather and pull when cut.
Stretch Silk
The stretch silk is a relatively easy fabric to work with, however the same issues with the elastane content can occur. This often causes ruching and the need to re-cut pieces.
Foam
The foam used for the bra cups is personally my least favourite fabric to work with. Due to the thickness of the fabric and the foam content this makes it particularly difficult to cut and ensure each of the edges are smooth.
This fabric is one I would like to work with more to improve my accuracy and familiarise myself with the techniques used to cut it.
Cotton Jersey
I have previously worked with this fabric and therefore had prior knowledge of how it performed when being cut and nuances involved with this, specifically around ensuring each elastane thread is cut before picking the piece up and how the stretch of the fabric often causes the edges to roll.
Lace
The lace is a particularly delicate fabric and therefore requires a great amount of care when cutting. Although pattern placement is relatively easy due to the pattern pieces following the shaping of the lace, some pieces have a tighter weave than others meaning that the fabric has to be manipulated to fit the pattern piece perfectly. The lace also has a tendency to shift and can tear when cutting meaning that extra time needs to be taken when cutting this fabric.
Week 2
My second week on placement has consisted of:
Finished re-making pattern pieces for the 8 SW Collections
Picked out items from stock for orders
Sewn Gold “SW” Tags onto Obi Belts
- Styled and chose 4 outfits to send off for a photoshoot
Used “scrap” Napa to cut out leather blindfolds
Also cut the stretch silk for arms and lining
Learnt the basics of Pattern Grading
Bagged and Labelled stock for sample sale
Discontinued Stock sorted into sets
Stockings, Belts, Blindfolds
New Stock
Packed suitcases for the sample sale
Used scrap fabrics to sample elastic application
Plonge and Napa Leathers, Stretch Silk, Suede
Used picot elastic to create a sample of the application process
The decorative edge must be facing out with the “fluffy” side of the elastic on the inside of the underwear.
Continued with the manufacturing process of the “Eve” Thong
This is my first attempt at construction
Cut out “Eve” Thong for the second attempt and began construction
Using Picot elastic
Something Wicked received an email request from a photographer to send a selection of lingerie for him to use for a portfolio shoot. This meant selecting products from the sample rail, and from the range of collections, to style and decide which were to be sent. Styling the pieces included using accessories and combining pieces from different collections to see which combinations would be most appropriate for the photoshoot. A final selection of 4 outfits, along with the complementary accessories were then packed ready for the courier.
Examples to follow
Due to another brand having approved the samples; the grading of these patterns was needed ready for manufacturing. This allowed me to work alongside a member of the SW team and learn the basics of pattern grading. She explained that there were certain points on a pattern (such as the CF and neckline in some instances) which stay the same for balance and accuracy and other points (ie: (the neckline), armhole, side seams and hems) which increase/decrease from the sample size to create the size range (XS - XL).
This week was also the week before SW attended a sample sale down in London, therefore meaning that everything which was going to the event needed to be sorted, organised and packed. This allowed for a greater understanding of the products available at SW and those which have been discontinued; along with the reasons as to why.
Examples of Styling
Week 3
My third week on placement has consisted of:
Cut out orders and stock
Put away remaining stock from the sample sale
Anything which did not sell; both new and old stock got put away ready for orders/ the next sample sale
Took parcels to the Post-office
For click-and-drop
Traced off pattern pieces for the mens lingerie brand
SW are the manufacturers for a variety of other lingerie brands
Cut out products for the mens lingerie brand
Using Towg
Cut out “Eve” Mini-brief and began construction
This was for my first attempt
Cut out "Eve" Thong for final construction
A summative post will be available in the "Manufacturing Summative Posts" section at the bottom of this page once my placement is complete.
Meeting with my placement tutor
This is a requirement of my university and is to assess how I am performing whilst on placement
Cutting out for the Mens Lingerie order allowed me to work in another new fabric Towg.
Towg as a fabric is rather unusual both in composition and to handle. Compositionally; Towg appears to be an extremely lightweight elasticated fabric, similar in some aspects to a viscose jersey and to denier. To cut and handle, the properties and techniques are the same as those applied to cutting Denier.
The elastane content in the fabric often doesn't fully cut through and when lifting the pieces can cause pulling and gathering which cannot be eased out.
Week 4
My Fourth week on placement has consisted of:
Cutting out orders
Attaching swing tags to stock
Put returned items from Photographer back onto sample rail
Cut out and sewn "Eve Mini Brief"
Cut out and Sewn "Eve Suspender"
Cut out and Sewn "Eve Soft Cup"
A summative post will be available in the "Manufacturing Summative Posts" section at the bottom of this page once my placement is complete.
The "Eve" collection included the thong, mini brief, suspender and soft cup; therefore meaning that I have successfully sewn a full collection. The Eve collection uses Lightweight mesh and Picot elastic to achieve an elegant, understated finish. The collection (although now discontinued) allowed me to gain the knowledge of how to apply elastic to the garments and the different construction techniques used within lingerie.
Week 5
My Fifth week on placement has consisted of:
Cut out for orders
Completed an inventory list
SW was in need of ordering fabric and therefore asked me to complete an inventory list for all stock of fabrics, sewing supplies and hardware ready to send as one order
Organised the blindfold drawers
Cut out a stock order for the mens lingerie brand
All products are cut in Towg for the "Hollywood" collection
The Mens lingerie brand (which SW produces) sent in an order for multiple items of stock which needed to be cut and sewn. This week was predominantly spent cutting out these orders as there were a range of sizes required.
Week 6
My Sixth week on placement has consisted of:
A new placement student started
This therefore meant that I was able to show her;
Where patterns were kept and how they are organised
Where stock is held and organised
Where fabric is stored
How to cut out the patterns and what is involved with this
Explaining cutting pairs (of a pattern piece)
The grain lines of the fabric
How some collections require more fabric than others
Labelling bags with collection name, item, size and quantity
Where completed bags are placed
Explaining how to recognise each collection by the types of fabrics included
Cut out for orders
Sewn Care and Size labels into the male lingerie brand garments
These were sewn in by hand at the request of the owner as hand sewn labels are easier to remove than those which are machine stitched
Traced off remaining pattern pieces for male lingerie brand
Cut out for stock and put completed bag's away in stock slots (ready to be sewn)
Given a Brief
To create mini lace mens briefs for Christmas tree decorations
The mens lingerie brand have a set of lace briefs which I was asked to make in "mini" scale to send to the owners as a Christmas gift from SW
This process was ongoing throughout the week
The brief to create red lace Christmas decorations for the mens lingerie brand was an ongoing process throughout the week. The final products needed to be visually similar to the original product but proportionally appropriate as a tree decoration. Multiple attempts were made as the volume of the briefs proved challenging to replicate on a small scale; this was achieved by adding two small triangles of the lace into either "side seam" which created somewhat of a flare. The final decorations look extremely similar to the original product and will be sent to the owners of the menswear lingerie brand as a Christmas gift.
Week 7
My Seventh week on placement has consisted of:
Cutting out for orders
Cutting out for stock
Completing an Inventory for a supply order
SW needed to complete an order for hardware and accessories (eg rings, bra wires, hook and eyes etc) and therefore required an inventory to be taken.
Having come back to placement after the Christmas break, there were a lot of orders needing to be fulfilled. This therefore meant that a lot of the week was spent cutting out items for the orders.
January is also the period pre-valentines day when stock needs to be replenished and ready for the influx of orders. As SW is a luxury lingerie brand, Valentines day is one of their busier periods.
Week 8
My Eighth week on placement has consisted of:
Cutting out for orders
Cutting out for stock
One of the SW stockists had sent a return of stock after relocating which meant that this needed to be organised and put away.
In-order for this to be completed I also had to:
Organise storage boxes to be more logical
Re-order and organise the stock shelving units
This involved ensuring they were in a logical and convenient order
This task began due to the Nina Demi-Bra's not having enough space, therefore meaning that they needed relocating to ensure that there was no damage to the products
Organised Fabric Scrap boxes
Cut out and began construction of "Mia Ouvert Brief"
For my first attempt at working with Leather
With the stockist returning items to SW after relocating, this meant that for the beginning of the week I was tasked with organising the storage solutions used at SW. The storage boxes were organised so that each box had a different purpose. These included:
A photoshoot box
Sample sale stock
Lace stock
Vegan and Skirts (from all collections)
Nina bodysuit, Eve and Jade stock
Two boxes containing fabric samples from suppliers
These are used during consultations with new clients (as SW manufacture for other lingerie brands) to display the range of fabrics SW have access to and can produce with.
At the end of this week I began construction of the Mia Ouvert Brief, this was to see how the elastication of leather works when constructing a garment and to learn how to work with leather for lingerie.
Week 9
My penultimate week on placement has consisted of:
Cutting out orders
Cut out and Sewn
"Ava Suspender"
"Ava Peep Mini-Brief"
"Montana Suspender"
"Montana Thong"
Finished sewing the "Mia Ouvert Brief"
Cut out and Sewn
"Mia Thong"
"Mia Soft Cup"
"Mia Suspender"
A summative post will be available in the "Manufacturing Summative Posts" section at the bottom of this page once my placement is complete.
The Ava Collection uses a combination of Japanese Plogne Leather and suede, plush and strap elastic, and items of gold hardware. The construction of the Ava suspender and peep mini-brief allowed me to work with both leather and suede; providing me with a greater understanding of how these fabrics handle, along with the nuances involved when working with animal hides.
The Mia collection includes the thong, ouvert brief, suspender and soft cup, amongst other items. This therefore means that I have successfully sewn part of another collection. The Mia Collection uses a combination of Japanese Plonge leather and Powermesh along with Plush and strap elastic and gold hardware to create unity across the collection (one of the most prominent features is the gold triangles used across the collection). The construction of this collection has allowed me to gain knowledge of how to sew with leather, apply elastic to leather, and how to accurately construct the straps which are used across all SW collections.
Week 10
My final week on placement has consisted of:
Cut out orders
Cut out Leather Blindfolds
Cut out Mesh Blindfolds
Cut out Dust Bags
Sorted out scrap fabric bins
Cut out any pattern pieces which fit the scrap pieces of fabric
These pieces will be used when orders need cutting out
Cut Out and Sewn
"Montana" Ouvert Brief
"Montana" Soft Cup
"Nina" Thong
"Nina" Soft Cup
A summative post will be available in the "Manufacturing Summative Posts" section at the bottom of this page once my placement is complete.
The Montana Collection includes the thong, ouvert brief, suspender and soft cup, amongst other items. This therefore means that I have successfully completed the manufacturing of part of another collection. The Montana Collection predominantly uses powermesh, Japanese plonge leather and elements of tulle, along with plush and strap elastic and gold hardware. The manufacturing of this collection has allowed me to develop my skills when working with and sewing leather, whilst also allowing me to gain knowledge on the construction of a popular SW collection.
The Nina collection is constructed using Japanese plonge leather, tulle and powermesh, along with 12mm plush and strap elastic and gold hard-wear. The construction of the Nina collection has allowed me to develop my skills further when working with leather, whilst also allowing me to work with tulle.
Summary of Experiences
During my time at Something Wicked , I feel that I have gained an abundance of experience, knowledge and new skills; as a result of the team's support and guidance. I have also seen my confidence grow with regards to construction and have felt that my passion for my degree has also grown. During my time at Something Wicked I have developed my knowledge of luxury lingerie and have subsequently gained experience in constructing garments which I wouldn't have typically had the opportunity to.
The highlights from my time at Something Wicked include:
Working with a range of new fabrics
Working in an area of the industry I have had no prior experience in
Pattern Cutting and cutting fabric
Selecting outfits for photoshoots
Learning the basics of pattern grading
Helping with the organisation for the Sample Sale
Assisting with the mens lingerie brand
The "Christmas Decoration" Brief
Having the opportunity to learn how to manufacture lingerie through a variety of collections
Manufacturing Summative Posts
Elastic Application Samples
Japanese Plonge and Nappa Leathers:
Both leathers reacted the same when elasticated. The appliction process was relatively easy as the right and wrong sides are visually obvious meaning that it was easier to ensure that the elastic was applied so the plush (fluffy) side was on the wrong side of the fabric when turned under.
One observation made was that leather marks and holes easily meaning that mistakes cannot be unpicked.
The application of elastic added a strong stretch to an otherwise non stretch fabric, allowing it to be manipulated for use in lingerie.
Suede:
When applying elastic to suede, it was slightly difficult to ensure that the right side of the fabric was facing up as both look very similar. The fabric as a whole reacted well to having the elastication.
Again suede marks and holes easily meaning that mistakes cannot be unpicked.
The application of elastic added a strong stretch to an otherwise non stretch fabric, allowing it to be manipulated for use in lingerie.
Stretch Silk:
Stretch silk, as indicated by the name compositionally contains elastane, providing some stretch.
Adding elastic to this fabric provided more of a stretch but personally the observation made was that elastic is added for an aesthetic purpose rather than necessarily for the stretch properties.
Lightweight and Heavyweight Powermesh:
Both powermesh's reacted the same when elastic was applied. Powermesh is used across all collections at Something Wicked and therefore this was one fabric which needed to be mastered before progressing onto making lingerie items.
The fabric does not have a right or wrong side and therefore when applying the elastic, the shaping of pattern pieces is relied upon (especially when pairs are involved). The application of plush elastic was easier than the picot as this doesn't contain a decorative edge, however the overall application of both elastics with practice became easier.
The application of elastic added a strong stretch to an otherwise non stretch fabric, allowing it to be manipulated for use in lingerie.
THE EVE THONG
First Attempt
My first attempt at the Eve Thong contained a number of mistakes. This was largely due to never constructing or working with lingerie before.
The issues which arose were:
Elastic application
As this was my first attempt there were two mistakes made during the elastication process.
The first was that I added too much tension when sewing the elastic
The second being that I used 10mm plush rather than 10mm plush Picot elastic, meaning the finish was incorrect.
Bar-tacking
I used the wrong settings on the machine for bar-tacking the elastic (one the rings had been added) meaning that they were not as secure as they should be.
Finished Garment
Due to the issue with the tension, the Thong; initially cut as a medium ended up meeting the requirements for an extra-small.
The feedback I received with regards to the finished thong was that the garment was well constructed. The issues with the elastication and bar-tacking needed to be resolved; ensuring that the thong would be the correct size and technically accurate.
Second Attempt
My second attempt at the Eve Thong contained a small number of mistakes, but overall was a large improvement in comparison with my first attempt.
I worked alongside both machinists to resolve the issues from my first attempt; learning that there is a marker on the machine to indicate how much tension is needed when adding the elastic, and also when bar-tacking that the tabs left needed to be smaller and the machine settings adjusted to ensure they were accurate and neat.
The most prominent issue which arose was:
Elastic application
As this was my first attempt at using the 10mm plush Picot elastic, meaning that one edge was decorative and the other not
The issue which arose was due to the application of the elastic and ensuring that when turned to the wrong side of the garment, the decorative edge was visible. This caused some issues with regards to the overall finish of the garment.
The feedback I received with regards to the finished thong was that the garment was well constructed, however more care needed to be taken when applying the picot elastic to ensure that the decorative edge was always visible. The thong was the correct size and very close to being a well produced garment.
Final Product
To rectify the issues with my second attempt I again worked alongside the machinists to ensure that application of the picot elastic was accurate so the decorative edge was entirely visible.
The feedback received was entirely positive; that the final thong was produced to a high standard and good quality of work. Personally, I feel that the production of a near-perfect product is a huge achievement as I have learnt everything about constructing the thong whilst on placement with the help of the machinists.
THE EVE MINI BRIEF
First Attempt
My first attempt at the Eve Mini Brief contained a small number of mistakes, but overall was an accurately produced garment.
The most prominent issue which arose was:
Elastic application
As this was my first attempt at using the 10mm plush Picot elastic, meaning that one edge was decorative and the other not
The issue which arose was due to the application of the elastic and ensuring that when turned to the wrong side of the garment, the decorative edge was visible. This caused some issues with regards to the overall finish of the garment.
This was produced at the same time as my second attempt of the Eve Thong.
The feedback I received with regards to the finished mini brief was that the garment was well constructed, however more care needed to be taken when applying the picot elastic to ensure that the decorative edge was always visible. I also need to go back and check each step of production once finished to ensure no areas have been missed etc.
Final Product
To rectify the issue within my first attempt I worked alongside the machinists to ensure that application of the picot elastic was accurate so the decorative edge was entirely visible. This issue was rectified at the same time as the issues with attempt two of the thong.
The feedback received was entirely positive and again I feel that the production of a near-perfect product is a huge achievement.
THE EVE SUSPENDER
First Attempt
My first attempt at the Eve Suspender was heavily problematic and caused a lot of confusion during construction.
Manufacturing of the Eve Suspender began positively with the mesh elements being constructed correctly. The application of the elastic began to show some issues as tabs needed to be left at specific points to attach the suspender clips to, whilst also displaying that the elastic had been applied to the incorrect areas of the main body.
The image above displays how after making a number of mistakes, I stopped and asked the machinist for feedback. The feedback received was:
Photograph the pattern pieces to help with the elastic application as different pieces are elasticated at different times, not necessarily the main body of the suspender and then the other elements
To start the process again and double check the correct pattern pieces were being used (by referencing the photograph) to ensure that I was not getting confused by the instructions
Final Product
The final Eve Suspender was produced to a high standard.
To rectify the issue within my first attempt I used the feedback provided by the machinist to improve my approach to the construction of the suspender.
Overall, after having gained feedback and taken a different approach to the construction, the final product was highly successful. The feedback received once the Eve Suspender was complete was entirely positive and demonstrated that gaining feedback at points when I am struggling was beneficial to the final outcomes produced.
THE EVE SOFT CUP
First Attempt
My first attempt at the Eve Soft Cup contained a small number of mistakes, but overall was a well constructed garment.
The most prominent issue I faced was with regards to sewing elements (specifically the cups) in pairs. This began positively with the mesh being sewn as a pair, the issue began when applying the elastic. As both cups look identical (the only difference being the seam of the dart) I soon realised that after adding the elastic I had created two "right" cups; meaning that the "plush side" of the elastic would be on show on the right-side of one cup rather than the wrong. As I was nearing the end of construction at this point I carried on with the method, noting that I need to make this change on my next attempt.
Final Product
When constructing the final Eve Soft Cup, I was careful to rectify the major mistake made in my first attempt.
To ensure that the cups were sewn to form a pair, I created each cup separately sewing the mesh together then immediately applying the elastic before moving onto the next cup. I also ensured that the right cup was to my right and the left cup to my left when constructing other elements to make sure that I constantly had a pair.
I found that by manufacturing the soft cup in this way, it allowed me to ensure that the cups were a pair and eliminated some of the confusion felt during my first attempt.
The feedback received once the Eve Soft Cup was complete was positive and has demonstrated to me that I am capable of attempting to manufacture new garments/products and do not necessarily need prior experience to produce high-quality outcomes.
THE MIA THONG
First Attempt/Final Product
When constructing the Mia Thong, I was conscious of the fact that leather marks and if mistakes are made these are therefore permanent.
I found the overall process for the construction of the thong to be relatively simple. The application of elastic to leather requires a lot of care to ensure that the leather is being caught, and once turned, the leather needs easing through the machine (due to the thickness of the leather and elastic). I also found the construction of the straps (which sit on the hips and waist) to be relatively easy to construct and sew to the garment.
The feedback received once the Mia Thong was complete was positive and has allowed me to gain confidence when working with leather. This has demonstrated that I can work with new fabrics and produce high-quality, well constructed garments even though I may have been outside of my comfort zone.
THE MIA OUVERT BRIEF
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Mia Overt Mini Brief was an enjoyable process which posed a few challenges.
The first challenge was with regards to the front of the brief, all seams are sewn wrong-side to wrong-side so that 10mm strap elastic can be added both to conceal the seam but also add an aesthetic element which can be seen throughout the Mia collection. The second challenge faced was the construction of the gusset which is in two pieces rather than one. I overcame both challenges by asking for guidance from the machinist and ensuring that I was constructing the garment correctly. Again, the elastication of the leather and construction of the straps was an enjoyable and relatively simple process.
The feedback received about the Mia Overt Brief was positive, with a comment being made about how it was positive that I asked for feedback and guidance when constructing the garment rather than hoping that the outcome would be correct. This displays that I am confident in my own skills but I am also able to ask for assistance when needed to ensure that I am accurately constructing the garments.
THE MIA SUSPENDER
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Mia Suspender was an enjoyable process, allowing me to produce and accurate final product.
The suspender uses lightweight mesh and leather, along with 10mm strap elastic and gold hardware. I found the process for constructing the suspender to be enjoyable and simple to follow. The seams are covered with 10mm strap elastic which is coherent with the Mia collection, along with the gold triangle at the centre front (CF) of the suspender.
The feedback received again was positive. The Mia Suspender was made to a standard where it would be acceptable to sell as there were no errors within the construction. This provided me with confidence in my abilities whilst also displaying how I have progressed during my placement at SW.
THE MIA SOFT CUP
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Mia Soft cup had a lot of elements which needed to be completed.
The cups of the bra are double layered, with lightweight mesh underneath and leather on the outside; this subsequently meant that essentially two soft-cups were made and then combined into one garment. Despite this, I found the process easy to follow and the overall construction enjoyable. The detailing of the straps on the back of the bra allowed me to further develop and refine my strap making technique. I was also able to use the wire casing machine, learning a new skill and gaining the knowledge that although the bra is a soft cup, the side seams needed strengthening in order to retain their shape and be comfortable to wear.
The feedback provided about the Mia soft cup was positive and the praise received with regards to the accuracy of construction has further developed my confidence in my ability to produce high-quality, accurate items of lingerie.
THE MONTANA THONG
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Montana thong was simple and relatively quick.
The Montana Thong combines powermesh and leather, allowing me to further develop my skills when working with leather. I found that the application of the elastic on the thong was different to any of the other garment produced, this is due to the leg-holes and waistband being elasticated on the round rather than flat. This posed the issue of ensuring that all the fabric had been caught whilst not misshaping the leg holes, I found that although fiddly the process in general was easy to complete.
The feedback received was positive and I feel that my sewing and construction skills are being developed with the more that I produce.
THE MONTANA OUVERT BRIEF
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Montana Ouvert was simple and similar to the construction of the Mia ouvert.
The Montana Ouvert combines powermesh and leather, allowing me to develop my skills when working with leather and knowledge surrounding the construction of lingerie. I found that the overall manufacturing process was enjoyable and easy to understand, meaning that I was able to focus on the finer details; such as topstitching and elastication etc. The strap detailing was also enjoyable to construct and allowed me to further develop my skills of working with hardware and strap elastic.
The feedback received was positive and I feel that the ouvert brief produced is to a high standard and would be saleable.
THE MONTANA SUSPENDER
First Attempt/Final Product
Manufacturing the Montana Suspender further allowed me to develop my skills of working with leather, whilst also allowing me to understand how the elastication of such fabric is crucial for some items of lingerie.
The method for producing this suspender was simple to follow and allowed me to focus on the importance of adding elastic to leather both for the technical aspect of adding stretch to a non-stretch fabric and for the comfort aspect. I enjoyed the process of constructing the suspender as it has allowed me to hone my skills whilst working with leather.
The feedback received was again positive and provides an insight into the range of skills and the level of my technical abilities.
THE MONTANA SOFT CUP
First Attempt/Final Product
Manufacturing the Montana Soft Cup was an enjoyable process which had multiple elements to complete.
The manufacturing of the soft cup allowed me to develop my skills when working with leather and mesh, as well as further progressing my skills on the wire casing machine. The soft cup also has boning at the side seams, allowing me to use the plastic boning for the first time. The process of inserting the boning into the wire casing was simple and extremely easy to understand.
The feedback received was positive and I feel that the progress I have made, with regards to construction, during my placement is evident.
THE AVA PEEP MINI-BRIEF
First Attempt/Final Product
The Ava peep mini brief is constructed for two notoriously difficult fabrics; suede and leather.
The overall method for construction was simple to follow and similar to that of the Montana Thong. I faced some difficulty with the fabrics as the suede had a tendency to move whilst being sewn; this therefore meant that I had to work at a slower pace to ensure that I was being accurate when sewing. The elastication of the leg holes and waistband required a lot of care to ensure that both the leather and suede are being caught under the elastic, and once turned, the fabric needed easing through the machine (due to the thickness of the leather/suede and elastic). Despite facing difficulties with the fabrics properties, I found the overall process of construction enjoyable.
The feedback received was that I had produced a well constructed garment and that the extra time taken was clearly beneficial. I am extremely pleased with my final garment and have found that despite my reservations, I am able to work with challenging materials and produce outcomes to a high level.
THE AVA SUSPENDER
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Ava Suspender posed some of the same difficulties faced when constructing the Ava peep brief.
I approached the construction of the suspender in the same way that I constructed the Ava brief, I worked slower to ensure an accurate outcome. I found that the method of construction was simple to follow and similar to that of the Montana suspender; the therefore allowed me to focus on the accuracy of my sewing rather than the method needed to produce the garment. The construction of the suspender solidified why elastication is important for non-stretch fabrics and the role this plays for comfort and wearability of garments.
The feedback received about the Ava suspender was positive and I feel that I have gained confidence when working with difficult to handle fabrics. I have developed all my skills to produce a high-quality garment which is both wearable and comfortable.
THE NINA THONG
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Nina Thong was an enjoyable process and allowed me to develop skills I have previously acquired when constructing other items of lingerie.
The construction of the Nina Thong was a simple process to follow and allowed me to further develop skills I had gained whilst manufacturing on placement at SW. The thong is constructed using leather, tulle he and strap elastic, finished with 12mm plush elastic and 12mm gold rings. I found the construction of the thong simple to complete, which allowed me to focus on perfecting elements such as the straps at the back.
The feedback received about the Nina Thong was positive and I feel that I have developed a multitude of skills which were gained throughout my placement.
THE NINA SOFT CUP
First Attempt/Final Product
The construction of the Nina Soft Cup was an enjoyable process which allowed me to work further with leather and tulle to expand my skills and knowledge when working with these fabrics.
The process for constructing the Nina Soft Cup was similar to that of the other collections, allowing me to focus on perfecting the garment rather than focusing on the technique. The application of the leather to the neck edge of the bra posed a few questions, causing me to ask the seamstress for guidance. This allowed me to gain feedback at this stage whilst also learning how to correctly apply the leather panel. The overall constriction of the soft cup was enjoyable and allowed me to continue with he development of my skills.
The feedback received about the Nina Soft Cup was positive and has allowed me to gain further confidence in myself when manufacturing different garments and lingerie. I feel that the soft cup was finished to a high standard and displays my sewing and construction abilities well.